Weaving with a shuttle weaving machine and then finishing after finishing.
1, the design principle
In the development of synthetic fiber suede products, the raw materials we use are the filaments of ultra-fine fibers, which are woven into fabrics. After a special dyeing and finishing process, fine and uniform hairs are formed on the surface of the finished fabrics. The ultra-fine fibers have the advantages of being fluffy, elegant, and soft to the touch. The drape and softness of the ultra-fine fiber fabric are excellent and the hand feels comfortable. There are various types of microfibers, which are suitable for suede fabrics such as polyester/polyester-seafood fabrics and polyester/cotton cakes. Sea-in-the-sea fibers are opened by the dissolution method, and the orange flap fibers are opened by the exfoliation method. Dissolving polyester/polyester-in-sea fiber by dissolving method makes it more reliable to turn microfiber into ultrafine fiber after opening fiber. Therefore, we are using polyester 16.7tex/36fx371 (Island Silk) + 7.6tex conventional polyester coated double braid, and polyester with the use of l1.1tex as the raw material for the development of imitation suede products.
The island silk is a polyester island filament of South Korea's Huiwei Shi Company. There are 37 islands in its single fiber, and after the sea portion is dissolved, the single fiber is 0.05 De. It has a powdery, soft feel and a suede-like appearance.
2, production process analysis
There are three links to the success of suede production.
2.1 Selection of Raw Material Quality and Formulation
The polyester island filament provided by South Korea's Huiwei Shi Company was selected. To ensure the stability of the cloth quality, it is required to ensure that the raw material is a first-class product and the same lot number. The fibrillation recipe uses a special high temperature caustic water (150°C, pH=13-14 water) process recipe matched to the raw material.
2.2 Weaving process
Before the weaving should be done evenly or coated evenly, the vacuum degree and the process choice of raising and lowering the temperature during shaping are very important, otherwise the colored flower phenomenon will easily appear after the fabric is dyed.
2.3 Grinding, dyeing and sueding
Bad results will produce deep, light colors. The buffing of the fabric is done through the cutting of corundum. The number of sand pits is small, and the corundum particles are large. The force acting on the fabric during the grinding process is large, and the milled hair is longer, and the strength of the fabric is also decreased. If the number of sand skins is too large, sanding is more difficult and the cost is increased accordingly. According to the sanding mechanism, we adopted the “first heavy and light” sanding process for the five sanding rollers, that is, the first sanding roller uses the lower mesh sand belt. The purpose is to cut as many fibres as possible into single fibres in the yarn; the last four sand rollers use a relatively high number of sand belts in order to continue to pull the fibres out of the yarn and cut them. It is important to grind and pull the cut single fiber into fluff. This will make the fluff after grinding reach the “fine, short and dense” effect better. The tension during dyeing is also very important. If the tension is too large, hair loss will occur, such as the shape of a chicken claw.
The suede treatment is mainly suede soft treatment, and the treatment of the suede directly affects the fabric's hand feeling and taking performance.
The woven suede products are mainly divided into warp and weft suede. The zonal suede product specification is 15×5×33, and the raw material specification is 75D×225D. It can be produced both on the water jet loom and on the air jet loom. The product is characterized by a good velvet feel, softness and fineness. The blank width is 160cm and the finished width is 145cm. Its finished fabrics weigh up to 160 grams per square meter. Woven suede is the ideal fabric for making home textiles and shoes. The longitudinal suede product specification is 11.5*5+28 and the raw material specification is 105D x 150D. It can also be produced on water jet looms or air jet looms. Its texture is better than that of zonal suede. Thick and strong velvet is its main feature. After finishing, it can be gilded, embossed, punched, printed, etc. The white breadth of the product is 160cm, and the width of the finished product is 152cm. The finished product fabric weight is 170g/m2. The suede not only produces sofa sets, upholstery cloths, ladies' spring and autumn clothes, but also can make curtains after printing.
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